Saturday, December 31, 2011
Bob had said that the weather was decent, high 20's during the day, dropping to the teens (degrees F) at night. Water bottles are not freezing overnight when left in the tent, so that's all good.
Bob also noted that a doc had checked them out at Base Camp, just to ascertain their medical viability to climb. At Base Camp, Bob had a SPO2 (Oxygen Saturation, also known as a "pulse ox") reading of 97%. This is out of 100. At sea level, a healthy person should get 96 or higher. The fact that Bob had a 97% at 13,000 feet is awesome. They checked again at Camp 1, and it was down to 85% - normal for that altitude. It will be interesting to see what happens up higher. (I have seen climbers at altitude in the 50%'s, which at sea level would involve a trip with lights and sirens to the ER, but at altitude becomes just one of those things.)
Until Bob's next call...
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Bob said that he was doing well, his legs felt strong, his overall endurance was good. Nicky was doing well, too, he said. He said he had a headache rating about a 3 out of 10, annoying but not unexpected. He said most team members had a low-grade headache, but that's why they will sleep there the next couple nights and acclimatize. The good news was that his and most everyone's appetites remained strong, so the little bit of altitude illness experienced was not affecting their ability to stay fueled.
Dinner had been rice and chicken, not too exciting; but Bob said they have been eating well. He loved burger night at Base Camp (does anyone remember when Bob was a vegan?), and Martin made pizza from scratch at Camp 1 with pepperoni, herbs and 'shrooms.
Bob also sent props to Andrew, who descended earlier. He said he never saw anyone work so hard to take care of themselves and get down and out of harm's way. (For more details, see Andrew's comment to an earlier post on this blog.)
Today they are carrying a load up to Camp 3 at 19,800 feet and then returning to sleep at Camp 2. Tomorrow they will rest at Camp 2 and acclimatize some more, then Saturday they will move up and sleep at Camp 3. If all goes well and the weather gods cooperate they will hopefully ring in 2012 with a summit climb on Sunday January 1, 2012. Good luck, dude, and to the whole team!
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Bob reports that the temperature is surprisingly mild, about 30 degrees F with a light breeze. The team all seems to be doing well. Bob says he does not have a headache at this altitude and he has a strong appetite. He said that Nikki is doing equally well. They are sleeping ok, and Bob seemed in very good spirits.
The plan is for the team to make a carry up to Camp 2 today, another1,500 feet higher than Camp 1. Tomorrow (Wednesday) they will move camp up to Camp 2, on Thursday they will make a carry to Camp 3, and Friday will be a rest day. All dependent a little bit on the weather, of course, but for now all looks good.
Bob said that the team appreciates all your good wishes and thoughts. He'll call again when he can.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Friday, December 23, 2011
Temperature in Base Camp is about 30 degrees F, with constant breeze and winds gusting up to 20 MPH. Not too bad yet, Bob said, right before he said he needed to put his gloves to hold the phone.
Everyone is healthy, he said. He and Nikki have a very low grade headache, no big deal, and they expect that it will pass by tomorrow. Appetites are good, and everyone looks forward to a rest day tomorrow. I could hear Nikki laughing in the background of the phone call. Bob reports that the entire team is getting along and enjoying each other's company.
On Sunday (Christmas Day) the team will carry a load up to Camp 1 and cache it, then return to Base Camp. On Monday they will move camp up to Camp 1.
Next report when Bob next calls. (mjs)
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Monday, December 19, 2011
We did a gear check before dinner to make sure everyone had what they need. I loaned an extra pair of gloves to Andrew. Brandon and Nick did not get one of their bags. We shall see if it comes tomorrow, if not, they will have to buy some gear.
Tomorrow morning we will buy the permits for $800 dollars US then head out on a 4 hour drive to Penitentes.
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Tonight we will start to congregate and get to know whoever is already here so we can begin to bond as a team. It is always very interesting to see who gravitates to whom. The worst thing to do is end up with a tent mate that is not like you, that is just another stress rock added to the pile. Luckily I have Nikki so I am totally fine.
Off to the streets of Mendoza.
Saturday, December 17, 2011
When you leave for a few weeks and live on a mountain you always talk about what you will eat first when you get in the states. For me it is usually Pizza. My choice's are limited at an airport but my last meal was a good old fashion US style hamburger. In argentina the beef is grass fed and in every restuarant so the flavor will put it to shame but happy about my last meal choice. On the mountain it will be oat meal, power bars and noodles for weeks. The higher up you go the less of an appetite you get, hence the discussion about food familiar to you.
Friday, December 16, 2011
Just pulled out the cash for the trip. $800 dollars for the permit, and about another $800 for all the extra's that might happen. Did you know that there are now conversion charges on your credit card when you buy something with your Visa. I am not talking about the conversion cost, I am talking about an additional 3% charge on your card. Amex charges 2.75% on top, just wanted to let you know. This is the reason I am taking all the cash. Thankfully for me I am a bit bigger than the typical South American so I am not too worried about being mugged.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
My friends at work created a going away poster and had a bunch of people sign it. The day before they gave me a Chia party and today some walked the steps with me. In all my years climbing nobody has ever done this, it feels really nice. Thanks everyone!!
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Saturday, December 10, 2011
I got a pretty good article from my good friends the Bennett's, it was written by Ed Viesturs talking about his Annapurna attempt in 2000. The article talked about how Ed and his team were moving up the mountain but just could not get comfortable with what was going on with the mountain. In the end they decided to bag it. While they were putting snow on the badly bruised ego's, the largest Avalanche ripped down the mountain. They all said what a great choice they made, they would all have certainly perished.
This reminded me of a climb I was on in 1998, Bolivia, Illimani. It is not the same but similar in the fact that I just kept seeing a man falling in my mind the whole time I was sitting in the tent waiting for the clock to hit 11 p.m., the time we were going to head to the summit. I was in the tent with the lead guide and when we were about to get out of our tent I said I am not going. He said "why, you are a good climber you can do this" I just said this is not my time. As it turned out, another guy on the team that was heading for the summit did take a fall on the rope. The pitch was close to 70% on parts of that hill. While nothing went wrong, I often replay that decision in my tent that night and I forever say, go with your gut when your gut is talking loudly.
When I was on Everest at 24,000 feet, feeling like death NOT warmed over I went through a different kind of thinking. While everything in me was saying don't give up, give it all you got, I just could not see the outcome in my mind. Since I could not clearly see the outcome, I turned as many of you probably know.
You can easily say that I have made good decisions but I will tell you the emotions that were tied to those decisions still swim around in my head. Constantly I try to make myself feel better about turning or not moving on, but they still eat away at me.
That being said, you might have figured it out...I need to cap this mountain for it mocks my very soul. I will not go lightly into the hill, I will fight with every step.
Climb High, Don't Die
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Dude, safe travels, and we look forward to hearing/reading all your stories.
Monday, December 5, 2011
Training has tapered off because I am just worried that I will do something stupid and hurt myself. The stationary bike seems like the best bet right now.
More food just came in the mail, I will post up my list of items when I sort through all of my gear this week.